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Hey folks, and welcome to the Supreme Suspensions channel. Now today we’re going to install a set of our new tubular upper control arms onto a 2006 Toyota 4Runner. We’re also going ot put a 3.5” leveling kit in there and those upper control arms are really help us get that thing aligned once it’s all back together.
So before you get started, you’re going to want to get a set of metric sockets and some ratchest. You’re also going to want to get a set of metric wrenches. You’ll want a torque wrench to help get it all back together in spec and an impact gun will help you get it apart but if you have a big ‘ol breaker bar, you’re not gonna need it. So let’s head over to the shop and get her done.
With the truck securely in the air, drop those front wheels.
Next up you’ll want to disconnect the wheel speed sensor and pull the wiring pigtail free. Make sure you get both of the clips on the back of the wheel hub so you can move the wiring to the side and out of the way.
Move over to the tie rod end and wiggle that cotter pin out. Then zip off that castle nut off. And finally, knock the side of the steering knuckle with a hammer so that it pops loose.
On the other side of the knuckle, remove the brackets that hold the brake line in place. There’s one on the knuckle itself and another one bolted to the frame rail. There is also another bracket for the wheel speed sensor wiring on the upper control arm so you’ll need to remove that as well. We like to stick the bolts back into their original locations to that they don’t get lost in the shuffle of the rest of the build.
From there you can drop the brake caliper by pulling those two large bolts on the back of it.
The rotor will just slide right off.
The next stop is the stabilizer bar link and you’ll need to disconnect both ends and set it aside.
Head to the upper ball joint and wiggle to cotter pin out of there. Remove its castle nut and whack the top of the steering knuckle to pop it loose.
If you’re also adding a lift kit like we are then you’ll need to undo those three upper strut mount bolts so that you can drop that strut assembly later on.
After that you can get rid of the bolt that connects the strut to the lower control arm… so that the strut can drop out of the truck.
To attach the strut spacer, apply some thread locker to the three studs for the upper strut mount. Then slide the spacer over the stud and tighten those nuts down to 47 foot pounds.
Before the strut goes back in, you’ll need to finish removing the upper control arm and to do that, you’ll need to remove those soft dust shields that cover the gaps between the frame rail and the inner fender.
The upper control arms on these Toyotas are mounted by a single, really long bolt. You’ll need to remove the nut and slide the bolt forward to get the arm out.
Next, you’ll line up the new control arm with that long bolt that you just removed. Thread the nut on there and torque it down to 85 foot pounds.
Assemble to uniball joint with the longer piece on the bottom. You may need to persuade the a bit to get them to seat. Finish it off by running that 12 point bolt down through the middle of the joint.
Slide the strut assembly back into the truck and install the bolt into the lower mount. Thread up the nut and run it down to 100 foot pounds.
Install the three provided bolts into the upper strut mount with a washer on each of the bolts. Tighten them down to 47 foot pounds.
Snap the front dust shield back into place with the four plastic clips from the factory.
Raise the steering knuckle to the upper control arm and attach it to the uniball joint. Install the nut and tighten it to 81 foot pounds. Remember you’ll need a 12 point socket to steady the bolt.
Attach the tie rod to the steering knuckle and run the castle nut down to 65 foot pounds. Install the cotter pin to make sure that castle nut doesn’t back out on you.
Slide the brake rotor back onto the hub studs… and then install the brake caliper. Tighten its bolts to 90 foot pounds and verify that nothing is binding.
Install the brackets for the brake line. There isn’t a published torque spec here but sufficiently snug will get you by.
On the upper arm, secure the wheel speed sensor wire with the included bracket and the allen-headed machine screw.
Snap the rear dust shield back into place with the four plastic clips from the factory.
Reconnect the wheel speed sensor and snap the wiring back into the two clips on the back of the hub.
Attach both ends of the sway bar link and run their nuts down to 52 foot pounds.
Install the wheels with the lug nuts at 76 foot pounds.
So we’ve got out ‘06 4Runner back together and it’s sitting all high and mighty and we’re really happy how everything turned out. We hope you enjoyed our video today. If you did, please hit like. If this is your first time checking out or channel, please hit subscribe. If you have any questions about any of our products, whether it’s to install them on your own vehicle or which ones you need to buy, please don’t hesitate to give us a call. We’ve been at this a long time so if you’re dealing with it, I’m sure we’ve dealt with it too. Thanks for watching and have a great rest of your day.